Renaud and Adeline – Jura winemakers
Renaud Bruyère and Adeline Houillon are young winemakers from the Jura who produce a beautiful, light, ethereal Ploussard and a lovely blended, topped-up white wine made from Chardonnay and Savagnin.
They are a very small Jura producer with only 4.5 hectares of low-yielding vines, so their production is tiny.
Their vineyards for the red wine are near the tiny Jura village of Pupillin which sits on the hills above the main town of Arbois. When you drive into this village you see a sign proclaiming it as the “World Capital of Ploussard”.
Renaud and Adeline farm 4 hectares of vines within the Arbois appellation and its tiny sub-appellation Arbois-Pupillin, spread across four different plots. They live in Pupillin, a few kilometres from Arbois, in the Rue de Ploussard, a constant reminder that the people of Pupillin prefer the term ‘ploussard’ in preference to ‘poulsard’ for the iconic red grape variety for which it is famous.
This acreage is more than what Renaud and Adeline began with but less than what they had five years ago, including the period these wines come from. In 2019 and 2020 they gave up some of the land they were working with, having decided that 4 hectares is the right amount for them to work with comfortably and still make a living.
Almost half of Renaud and Adeline’s vines are on a west-facing slope in Pupillin in the lieu dit en Aspis. They include young Ploussard, Trousseau, Chardonnay and Savagnin which they have planted, some Savagnin and Ploussard that are approaching 20 years of age, and much older (more than 65 years) Savagnin and Chardonnay.
These vines produce all the wines they make with the AOC Arbois-Pupillin. The soil is extraordinarily complex, with multiple colours of marl (red, green and grey), and the lieu dit is renowned for its long-lived white wines that can take many years to reach their full potential.
Renaud and Adeline have approximately a hectare in the lieu dit La Croix Rouge, which is within the AOC Arbois and planted entirely with Chardonnay that is approximately 25 years old. On flatter land, it runs along the west side of the N83 road, which if you have visited this part of the Jura is the main road between Arbois and Poligny. Facing north-west its clay soils result in grapes that make “easier drinking” white wines which can be enjoyed while young.
Les Tourillons, also within the Arbois AOC, is just north of the town and has one of the loveliest aspects for viewing Arbois. It must be such a pleasure to work here and look up across the picturesque town, with its iconic church tower, toward the hills in the distance.
The soils are limestone scree on lias marne, with the limestone very close to the surface. The vines, which are in their mid-50s are coplanted Chardonnay (mainly) and Savagnin, with a few (approximately 200) vines of Trousseau. The exposition is north-west. These are the lightest soils on the estate producing wines with salinity and minerality which are full of energy and tension. The Chardonnay and Savagnin are always harvested, pressed and vinified together, which means the Chardonnay is a little riper than the Savagnin.
Renaud in les Tourillons, with Arbois in the background
Les Nouvelles, also within the AOC Arbois is the final part of the puzzle. It is in the commune of Mesnay, which is east of Arbois. If you have visited Arbois you may have driven through it to visit the Cascade des Tufs or the Thursday afternoon market in the permaculture garden at Les Planches-près-Arbois. Originally Renaud and Adeline had one hectare here but since 2019 they have reduced their holding to .5 of a hectare, comprising old vines of Ploussard and Melon à Queue Rouge (officially Chardonnay, but many Jura winemakers beg to differ). On a steep south-facing slope, which is difficult to work, the soil is limestone and clay (more limestone scree at the top and clay at the bottom). When they had the larger acreage there was also Chardonnay and Savagnin.
Prior to 2021 they had a fifth plot in the Jura commune of Montigny Les Arsures (also AOC Arbois) from the lieu dits Le Viaduc and Bacchus. We’ve received wines from Le Viaduc but never any named cuvées from Bacchus so we are not sure where they were used.
Le Viaduc is limestone scree on Lias marl (which is common in the Jura) and Bacchus is more clay from Lias. The vines are Savagnin and Ploussard (over 50 years old in Le Viaduc and 80 years old in Bacchus. (The oldest Ploussard vines were removed and replanted in 2023 but at the moment all the Ploussard we have here includes the old vines.)
We mention all of their Jura plots not just because it is interesting but because this year, as we mentioned, we have an almost bewildering selection of small quantities of many cuvées. They are from many places (En Aspis, Les Tourillons, Le Viaduc and Nouvelles) and we thought explaining the locations of the plots in an introduction may be more helpful than with descriptions of individual cuvées, which no-one will see all of.
Renaud Bruyère and Adeline Houillon Arbois Pupillin Ploussard 2017
Renaud Bruyère and Adeline Houillon have, once again, produced a beautiful, light, elegant red wine from the Jura Ploussard grape variety.
The Ploussard benefits from the Triassic clay in which the vines thrive. Much of their production is sold in two local Jura bars, namely Bistrot des Claquets (where we can always be found when we are in the area) and Les Jardins de St-Vincent. In both of these places locals and visiting Jura afficionados seek out this wine for its purity and finesse.
We find the back label (contra-etiquette) on each of the wines from Bruyère and Houillon very informative. As you can see the label is in French but it is relatively easy to get a sense of what they are saying.
They start by saying that the terroir is “argileux du Trias” which is Triassic era clay along with Lias which is limestone. The grapes are picked by hand (vendange manuelle) and the grapes are separated from the bunches using a screen that they rub the bunches on (crible). The grapes then undergo a type of carbonic maceration where enzymes in the grape are responsible for fermentation of the sugars inside the grape. As the grapes break down, normal alcoholic fermentation begins via the yeasts on the grapes and this occurs in a tank for 32 days.
The term “cuvaison” refers to leaving the skins and pips in contact with the juice so that the anthocyanins which provide the colour are extracted from the skin.
The wine is bottled without any filtration and without the addition of any sulphites. The last sentence points out that some carbon dioxide may remain in the bottle as it is a natural preservative that they encourage.
RRP: $90 (SOLD OUT)
Renaud Bruyère and Adeline Houillon Arbois Blanc La Croix Rouge 2018
This year we have been lucky enough to obtain some more of this amazing Bruyère and Houillon wine made from Chardonnay from the La Croix Rouge vineyard, from the 2018 vintage. The wines have been aged in a stainless steel tank (“100% cuve inox”) rather than the old oak barrels they usually use. As always they allowed the wine to rest until Renaud and Adeline were convinced it was ready to bottle.
The vines grow in limestone clay and the grapes, as always, are picked by hand and placed in small crates so that the grapes are not damaged in any way.
The back label refers to some of the information provided above. The words argilo-calcaire refers to the calcareous clay where the clay has been derived from limestone. The term ouillé is often used in the Jura these days and means “topped up”. White wines are treated in two different ways in the Jura. With some wines the juice is stored in old wooden barrels and some evaporates through the pores of the barrel. As the level of the wine goes down the wine becomes slightly oxidative.
This wine, however, has been topped up from time to time to ensure that there is only minimal contact with oxygen to preserve the freshness of the wine. As with the Ploussard, this wine has been bottled (mis en bouteille) without filtration or added sulphites out of respect for the fact that it is a “living” wine.
The wax on Croix-Rouge is white.
RRP: SOLD OUT
Renaud Bruyère and Adeline Houillon Arbois Pupillin Rouge En Aspis Trousseau 2019 and 2020
This is a beautiful red wine made from grapes picked from the en Aspis vineyard as described in the introduction above. This vineyard has very complex marl soils including red, green and grey marl.
The grapes underwent semi-carbonic maceration for 23 days prior to pressing (29 days for the 2020). This is the second vintage Renaud and Adeline have made from these young vines which they planted.
The variety is the rarer Trousseau La Dame. It is a powerful but fresh wine, reflecting the intense soils in Aspis. It could be cellared for several years.
14.78% ABV (12% for 2020)
The bottle is sealed with black wax.
RRP: SOLD OUT
Renaud Bruyère and Adeline Houillon Arbois Rouge Ploussard/Trousseau 2019 and 2020
The Ploussard in this blend is from Les Nouvelles (very old vines) and the Trousseau is from Les Tourillons, both of which are picked on the same day. Les Tourillons lies just to the north of Arbois and Les Nouvelles is in the commune of Mesnay to the east of Arbois.
The percentage split of the two red varieties for this wine is 65% Ploussard and 35% Trousseau. The grapes underwent semi-carbonic maceration for 27 days prior to pressing (30 days for the 2020).
The wine is quite concentrated with a real mineral streak, as a result of a hot vintage, and is definitely a wine which would reward cellaring.
13.83% ABV. (13% for 2020)
The bottle is sealed with red wax
RRP: SOLD OUT
Renaud Bruyère and Adeline Houillon Arbois Pupillin Blanc Chardonnay Vielles Vignes 2018
The vines for this cuvée are more than 70 years old. (It also will only be offered for a few more years because since 2022 the Chardonnay that has made this VV cuvée is has been blended with young Chardonnay planted in 2016.)
It spent 2 years in barrel and was bottled at the end of 2020.
13.71% ABV.
The bottle is sealed with white wax.
RRP: SOLD OUT
Renaud Bruyère Adeline Houillon Arbois Blanc Savagnin 2014
This is the first time we have been able to secure some of this absolutely delicious Bruyère and Houillon wine made from 100% Savagnin. It has been maturing in old barrels for almost three years.
The vines grow in limestone clay and the grapes, as always, are picked by hand and placed in small crates so that the grapes are not damaged in any way.
The back label refers to some of the information provided above. The words argilo-calcaire refers to the calcareous clay where the clay has been derived from limestone. This wine is ouillé. The term is common in the Jura in recent years, particularly for Savagnin. It means “topped up” and is used to indicate that the wine has been treated differently from Vin Jaune, the famous Jura oxidative wine.
This wine was topped up regularly (an expensive process given how many years it was in barrel) to ensure that there is only minimal contact with oxygen to preserve the freshness of the wine. As with the Ploussard, this wine has been bottled (mis en bouteille) without filtration or added sulphites out of respect for the fact that it is a “living” wine.
This is a sensational wine displaying all of the best characteristics of this jewel of the Jura. It has certainly benefitted from the time it has spent maturing in he old oak barrels. It is exquisite with comté but will work with many types of dishes.
This wine is the first glimpse of the consequences of the goal Renaud and Adeline have to age many of their white wines for much longer. Being a young domaine, it is always a balance between cashflow and aging but this special wine shows what the rewards are when it is possible. We are thrilled to be able to sell it.
RRP: SOLD OUT
Renaud Bruyère and Adeline Houillon Arbois Savagnin / Chardonnay 2017
This very interesting wine is a mix of 40% Savagnin from the Viaduc vineyard (see introduction) and 60% Chardonnay that was hand picked by Bruyère and Houillon from the Nouvelles and Viaduc vineyards in the Arbois commune.
The two varieties were harvested at the same time and assembled when pressing. It is rich but balanced. It spent three years in barrel prior to bottling in 2020.
14.32% ABV.
The bottle is sealed with blue wax.
RRP: SOLD OUT
Renaud Bruyère and Adeline Houillon Arbois Les Tourillons 2019
This wine is made from grapes hand-harvested by Bruyère and Houillon from the incredibly picturesque Les Tourillons vineyard which is quite small at 0.7 hectares, but occupies a West-facing site looking down on the Jura town of Arbois and beyond.
The soils here are calcareous scree and when you walk through the vineyard you can pick up small rocks of limestone. The 50 year old vines here are Chardonnay (80%), Savagnin (20%) with a few Trousseau vines. They were harvested all on the same day and pressed and vinified together. The wine was aged in wooden barrels.
Drinking this is a little like licking limestone which has been seasoned with lemons.
13% ABV.
The bottle is sealed with blue wax.
It is also, unusually for Renaud and Adeline, in a Jura bottle. This was because when they were ready to bottle the wines during the bottle shortages France experienced as a result of covid and other catastrophes it was all that they could find. There are apparently 3 cuvées in Jura bottles and this is the first we have received.
RRP: SOLD OUT
Renaud Bruyère and Adeline Houillon Arbois Blanc Savagnin Cuvé 2017
This is a delicious, macerated wine from Bruyère and Houillon in the Jura! We have posted the back label ahead of the front label for this wine as the back label (contra-etiquette in French) contains the story of just how difficult things were in 2017.
The first line of the back label refers to how bad the harvest was in 2017 due to the “année de terrible gel” – being the year of terrible frosts. This is yet another example of climate change introducing extremes in the weather. The frosts are appearing earlier than usual when the buds are just coming out on the vines and hence damaging these buds thus reducing the amount of fruit that can be grown on the vines. This is clearly the case as the yield was only 6 hectolitres per hectare when a yield of between 20 and 50 hectolitres would be the expected value.
The “terroir argilo-calcaire” is a reference to the soil of clay and limestone from which they hand-picked the grapes. The grapes were macerated for one month in a stainless steel tank before being pressed and moved to old barrels supplied by Etienne Thiebaud of Domaine des Cavarodes.
The juice was then left to mature and was topped up (ouillé) each time the level in the barrel dropped too far.
The wine was matured in the barrels and then bottled without the addition of any sulphites and without any filtration but there may (as always) be some natural sulphites (contient des sulfites naturels) in the wine – but only in tiny quantities.
RRP: SOLD OUT
Renaud Bruyère and Adeline Houillon Arbois Pupillin Blanc Savagnin/ Chardonnay 2017
The grapes for this wine were harvested from the prestigious Pupillin commune (in front of the famous sign) in the ratio of 70% Savagnin to 30% Chardonnay.
The Chardonnay in this blended cuvée is from old vines and the Savagnin is from young vines planted by Renaud and Adeline.
It spent three years in barrel prior to bottling in 2020.
13% ABV. The bottle is sealed with blue wax.
RRP: SOLD OUT
You can read more about Jura wines here.
You can read about our favourite place to eat and drink in the Jura here.