In the first article of this series of articles in the last newsletter we discussed the three types of rocks which cover the Earth but we did not discuss how these are turned into soil. That is what we are going to discuss in this article.
Recent Posts
It all starts with the soil – Part 1
In this series of articles we will examine the influence of soils, their mineral composition and the inhabitants of the soil (worms, spiders, bacteria and fungi) have on the quality of grapes and hence the quality of wines made from them.
The Auvergne region
The Auvergne region of France is one of our favourite places to visit. It is home to one of our most-visited establishments, namely the Auberge de Chassignolles where the accommodation and food lures us back many times each year. It is also the home to one of France’s most important […]
Just add oxygen – Reflections on the allure of oxidative wines
We have been thinking a lot about oxidative wines lately. There are a number of reasons for this. We have been importing Jura wines that are deliberately oxidative ranging from the Vin Jaunes that are exposed to oxygen for many years through to the table wines made from Savagnin and Chardonnay that have slight oxidative qualities.
Minerality in wine – Part 2
Minerality of the soil – Introduction We want to explore the importance of minerality of the soil in more detail, because in Part 1 of this series, published in the April 2013 newsletter we explained that only three of the sixteen essential elements for plant growth enter the plant via […]
Minerality in wine – Part 1
Minerality in wine and the role soil plays in contributing to minerality was the topic of a Masterclass at an early Rootstock natural wine festival in Sydney. It was interesting to participate in this event and to see how different people viewed the topic through completely different ‘lenses’. Vineyard managers […]
Folle Blanche Grape Variety
Folle Blanche is a grape variety used to produce Armagnac and Cognac as well as crisp white wines in the western Loire region of France.
Bistronomy: A book about the resurgence of bistro food in Paris
So why are we reviewing a book about Bistronomy in Paris? Apart from the fact that our general preference is to eat bistro food rather than tricked up, contorted food in Michelin-starred restaurants there is a connection to bistronomy through the wine. Almost every restaurant that features in the book […]
Pinot Auxerrois Grape Variety
Pinot Auxerrois (as it is known in Alsace) is a very interesting grape for making fresh, low acid, interesting wines. Although Riesling is more widely planted, the area devoted to Auxerrois is increasing every year as can be seen by the graph below. One of the most interesting things about […]
A new look at terroir
We explore some of the research that is emerging about the importance of living things in the landscape that contribute to terroir including the biota layer – the effect of living things. These living things range from the macro including birds, wasps and spiders down to the micro such as […]
June 2026. A restaurant we visit every year - for the people (including here @romainquiboit and @thepocket_rocket in the background in the second photo), the beauty, the produce, the generosity, the garden walk, the impeccable cooking and the wine. Every visit is a joy of the first order something to look forward to with great anticipation knowing there will never be a moment of disappointment.
@james_edward_henry_ and @shaunbarneykelly you are geniuses!
With impeccable timing (this post is from a meal in June - sharing our French trip this year is a slow project) we can use it to share that @le_doyennerestaurant_ is coming to @orson.paris on 20 September with vegetables and more. Go and support them if you can - they are teasing to make it regular! We’ll have a post about @orson.paris eventually too - our last, very gorgeous meal in France this year. But that was the end of July and we are still in June.
6 days ago
Setting aside the stress of knowing we couldn’t eat any of this because we were about to walk into the restaurant for lunch visiting @le_doyennerestaurant_ at the weekend and shopping for vegetables at its weekend market was absolutely one of our favourite moments of our summer in France this year.
Done with the same joy, generosity and gorgeousness as every other part of this establishment the Saturday and Sunday summer markets are a brilliant addition to this grand ever-evolving project.
We were heading towards the Jura and the panier of vegetables we took with us was invaluable.
You don’t need to be eating at the restaurant to shop or eat here. We’ve always loved lunch at Le Doyenné and now we’re locked in to a weekend shopping trip each time we visit.
Congratulations @james_edward_henry_ and @shaunbarneykelly. We’re crossing our fingers it’s repeated next summer.
3 weeks ago
We love this first photo of Jean-Pierre and Noëlla Robinot - a reminder of what a formidable and glorious team they make.
An afternoon with them is full of joy, surprises (the 2002 Vouvray as fresh as a daisy), always some new knowledge, delightful people and also always the most delicious food and wine.
3 weeks ago
One last meal in the Perche. A wonderful discovery this year that it’s possible to reserve for a meal at d’une île even if you are not a guest. If you’re staying nearby this is a wonderful option. No guarantees (no doubt house guests have priority) but our reservation came through quickly. Another facet of Bertrand Grébaut’s incredible legacy.
4 weeks ago
We were lucky to be in the Perche in June during (from memory) the second week of @lormoie_perche’s life. This bowl of lettuce is deliberately the first photo because it came from their own garden and represents so much of what this lovely project is about. It was delivered to the table with the special joy that surely can only come from having grown, picked and dressed it yourself. It’s a giant project to serve anything you’ve grown while doing all the other things that building and then running a restaurant involves so the team had every reason to be proud.
We loved everything about l’ormoie - its honesty, energy, wine list, and delicious dishes - and can’t wait to come back to see how the garden evolves and makes its way into the dining room as each season unfolds.
1 month ago
Still in the Perche (in June) where we stumbled on this vegetable stall in Rémalard-en-Perche) just before lunch and just before it closed, while looking for somewhere to buy toilet paper of all things!
Some of the best vegetables we bought in 6 weeks of travel, including a cucumber that redefined what cucumbers can be, with a completely mesmerising silky texture. Afterwards we found the sign to the farm, just a few minutes from d’Une Ile. It’s open on Saturday mornings - a memo made for a future visit.
1 month ago